Last week in Hong Kong landmark, there was an exhibition to pay tribute to a 95-year-old lady, Iris Apfel, and her fashion collection.
Iris Apfel doesn’t have professional background in the fashion industry at all. Being a businesswoman specializing in interior design, she takes fashion as a hobbit. She buys clothes and accessories in her business trip with her husband, creates her own infamous big-statement style- chunky jewelries, oversize sunglasses, dazzling colors. One of her famous saying is “More is more, and less is a bore.”
上星期在香港置地廣場, 有一場向Iris Apfel致敬的展覽.
Iris Apfel是誰呢? 嚴格來說, 她和時尚產業並沒有直接的關連. Iris和先生經營室內設計, 時尚只是玩票. 她利用每次出差的機會, 在各處購買對她來說設計風格不尋常的衣服和飾品, 並藉此打造她著名而特有的時尚風格- 她的穿搭中, 總是會有幾件造型誇張的首飾, 超大的眼鏡, 以及絢麗的色彩. 而她也有句名言: “多即是多, 少就是無聊!”
More is Chic Now 多層次搭配主導的時代
What triggers me the most is that, under the influence of ever-stylist Coco Chanel from the last century, I believe that “less is more” has become a doctrine at the stage when most of us are still exploring and building our personal fashion and taste. Nowadays, however, the rising of the individualism among the millennials and of social media requests more. Statement with personality seems better appreciated- the stronger, bigger, quirkier, the better- and which could thus win one more followers on social media.
In this sense, layering or multiplying becomes an easy tactic to reach this purpose. Wearing a dress over a shirt, a pair of pant under a skirt are nothing new. Some designers become popular through the fun adding-up elements and hence the success enables them to increase retail prices season by season.
讓我覺得相當有趣的是, 在Coco Chanel的影響下, “少即是多”已成為上世紀以來被奉為圭臬的穿搭教條. 幾乎每個人在學習如何穿搭, 摸索並建立個人風格的階段, 都多少受到此句話的影響. 然而, 在千禧世代興起, 個人主義被極力吹捧, 也在多種社交媒體的推波助瀾下, 誇張的以及有強烈個人風格似乎受到更多的關注. 只要你的穿搭風格愈強烈, 造型愈怪異, 就愈容易被看作是潮人, 也因此能在社交媒體上贏得更多追隨者和讚.
在這樣的潮流下, 多層次穿搭成為似乎最能創造話題性的方式. 在襯衫外套一件洋裝, 或者在裙下穿件褲子, 這些都已經被各類時尚潮人玩到沒啥新意了. 近來也有一些新興設計師, 憑藉著古怪破格的有趣設計, 贏得眾潮人的青睞, 也因此能透過亮眼的業績, 晉升為潮牌的優勢, 在每一季不斷的提升零售價錢.
Not only clothes. Stacking up rings, necklaces and bracelets have been already there for quite many years.
不只是服飾, 多層次穿搭風更早已吹到飾品. 成為這幾年最風行的配搭方式, 也讓許多竄起的新興設計師品牌能不費吹灰之力地做到連鎖銷售.
The trend also becomes more prominent in the way of wearing earrings in the recent seasons. It is no more the identity of being a punk to have multiple piercings. The truth is, with a good arrangement of the earrings, the style could look elegant and powerful at the same time.
項鍊, 手鍊, 戒指已不稀奇. 現在還流行多耳洞. 以前這屬於龐克的象徵 ,在現在只要配搭得好, 有多個耳洞也能看來既優雅又酷.
Know Your Style- Be Experimental but Don’t be Fashion Victim 了解自己的風格- 勇於嘗試 但不要變成時尚的烈士
It is no harm to be experimental in the fashion world- just like what Iris Apfel has still been trying at her 90s. However, I strongly believe that, in order to make this “MORE” works and, meanwhile, avoid being a fashion victim, knowing your style should still comes first. One has to always respect who you are, take it as the “base” and add one or two key elements as the highlight to the look.
Then how to start as a amateur??
To me, accessory is easier to start with. Even wearing plain outfits, good mix-and-match with accessories can easily stand one out. Among all, pearl is my most favorite accessory for styling. It serves as a magic wane to light up all styles- working alone, it’s very elegant and feminine. With any other materials, it creates a magical harmonious contrast. For example, with leather and chunky chain, it delivers a sweet rock/rebellion character. A ring marrying big pearl and thick metal presents a kind of power with softness and elegance. Big pearl can make a dazzling statement while small pearl gives sophisticated touch. Charming with character!
勇於嘗試在時尚界一向都不是什麼壞事. 就像Iris Apfel到了95歲高齡, 仍在不斷嘗試鑽研如何突破現有的穿搭 .然而, 我始終相信, 不管潮流如何變, 謹守自己的風格永遠都是最重要的. 這不是指你得畫地自限. 相反的, 當你了解並尊重自己整體的風格之後, 你可以在其上任意添加一兩樣現在流行的元素. 這樣, 整體能傳達出當季的流行感, 但又有個人的風味.
所以, 如果是時尚生手, 有什麼簡單的捷徑可以遵循呢?
對我來說, 從飾品下手永遠都比服飾簡單. 即使你穿著素色基本款的服飾, 好的飾品配搭會有畫龍點睛的效果. 而在所有的飾品當中, 我個人最喜愛用珍珠配搭. 珍珠是種很神奇的材質, 單獨看, 它非常優雅和女性化, 但結合不同材質, 又能撞出既和諧又有衝突感的趣味. 比方說, 珍珠和皮或粗重感的金屬鍊搭配一起, 會有一種甜蜜搖滾, 小叛逆的風情. 單獨戴一件有珍珠的厚重金屬戒指, 整隻手突然之間會變得既有霸氣又有貴氣. 大珍珠炫目, 小珍珠則含蓄優雅, 非常容易創造個人化的魅力!
Practice makes perfection. The same to the styling. If at the age of the 90s, Iris Apfel never gives up exploring the alternative styling possibilities, why should we?!
俗話說, 練習能夠力臻完美, 應用在時尚搭配亦然. 如果 Iris 奶奶到了這年紀都還這麼努力, 那我們又有什麼理由放任自己拉遢呢?