Men Fashion: The Rising of Modern Dandyism 時尚潮男的崛起

A while ago, I promised a male friend to write something about men’s fashion one day. To be honest, I am not an expert to men’s fashion. However, working in the fashion industry these years with many male tastemakers around, I am lucky to observe how they dress and accessorize themselves in a creative way. Riding on the taking place of Pitti Uomo last week (12/6-15/6) in Florence, Italy, I think it’s time to carry out my promise and share my idea to men’s fashion.

To explain how Pitti Uomo inspires me to this post, I want to provide a short background. This bi-annual trade show is viewed as the most important platform for men’s clothing & accessories, and for launching new projects in men’s fashion. It draws buyers, retailers, editors and menswear enthusiasts from around the globe every season. Aside from the business activities, what makes it more and more interesting to watch is actually what happens outside of the event venue demonstrated by those so-called “pitti peacocks.”

Contrary to the theatrical presentation of runway shows, Pitti Uomo promotes a more impeccable taste and craftsmanship of men’s fashion. Therefore, aside from flamboyant peacock style, classic elegance is another mainstream captured by the satorial shooting outside of the event venue. Such classic elegance interprets certain Italian way of dressing- these tailoring geeks are bottoned up, soft-shouldered suiting and well accessorized. They show business casual styles added up with modern dandyism that plays contrast in details (intentionally look not entirely business-appropriate to make a powerful statement!) Most importantly, most of these people are not models with perfect figures and faces or stereotypical gays- most of them look just like regular straight men!

之前我曾答應一位男性友人, 有朝一日要寫些男性時尚的分享. 坦白說, 我自認不是男性時尚專家, 但幸運的是, 在時尚界工作多年, 受到身邊許多時尚潮男的薰陶, 對男性時尚, 我也得到些許啟發. 趁著上週在意大利佛羅倫斯舉行的國際男裝展, 打鐵趁熱, 我想是機會實現我的承諾, 來談談男性時尚了!

先解釋一下佛羅倫斯國際男裝展是什麼. 這個一年兩次的時尚展, 對於展售男性時尚產品, 以及產業界一些新品牌, 商業操作以及合作的誕生, 被視為重要的觀測平台. 每一次的男裝展總是吸引全球的時尚買手, 品牌, 媒體編輯, 以及時尚潮男前來朝聖. 除了商業上重要的價值之外, 另一個讓全球眼球越來越關注此商展的原因 , 來自市場外聚集的時尚潮男, 以及他們在街拍攝影師鏡頭下展演的個人時尚秀.

佛羅倫斯國際男裝展看重的, 並不同於四大時裝秀那些戲劇性的演出. 相反的, 此商展側重與會者一對一的互動, 在品牌的展售上也偏重無懈可擊的品味, 實用性以及手工傳承. 因此,  場外街拍的時尚潮男們, 雖然也不可避免有誇張前衛的造型, 但更多的是呈現優雅品味與質感的義大利式穿扮. 他們多半西裝畢挺, 但運用細節及飾品創造一種悠閒時髦的迷人態度. 這種刻意打造的漫不經心, 非傳統專業或商業人士的主流打扮, 反而在傳達個人態度時有種力量. 另外值得一提的是, 這些時尚潮男們既非專業模特兒, 也非品味超群的同志們 , 他們大多數是像你我一樣的普通人.

The emergence of these “pitti men” announces the changing attitude to men’s fashion. Nowadays men are more comfortable being fashionable and being dandy. The “Victorian somber sensibility and Midwestern blue jeans kind of practicality” that dominate the men’s fashion in the past century are no more the only options.  Men are learning to leverage fashion to express themselves as well- wearing an outfit is no more to hide, but more to show off, their bodies and personalities. This trend also echos the booming of men’s fashion business. The growth of men’s fashion has outpaced the growth of womenswear in the recent years, which triggers many high-end fashion brands to open their men-alone boutiques to serve this rising segment!

Given the evolution of the men’s fashion, I still know a good quantity of men struggling. Most of them are well-educated, grow up in a generation with a stereotype that pursuing fashion being not men’s thing (especially those who work in hardcore business would easily use this as an excuse.) Even though they all want to look good, they may not know how to do and are shy to get help.

As shared in my previous posts, my belief to fashion is that it is a self-expression and reflection to personal image. Well leveraging it could make one more confident, thus lead to unexpected opportunities and good transformation. Based on this belief, I want to dedicate this post to these struggling men. Hopefully my sharing from learning the dandyism of these “Pitti Men” below can inspire and encourage them experiment on themselves bravely!

All looks below are from Instragram: pitti_uomo_ unless being cited with different sources.

這些時尚潮男的崛起, 揭示了大眾對男性時尚態度的轉變. 相對於過去一世紀, 男性時尚被嚴肅專業以及休閒實用風格主導, 現在的男性們, 似乎對於擁抱打扮這件事, 越來越感到自在. 他們學習如何運用衣著和造型表達自己的個性和肢體. 這個趨勢也反映了男裝市場的蓬勃, 幾年以前, 流行產業裡男裝的業績成長早就超過女裝. 這也促使許多高端的奢侈品牌,開始將男裝和女裝分開, 各自設立獨立的店面, 以迎合不同的客群.

雖然時尚潮男越來越多, 但我身邊還是見到不少談到打扮就尷尬的男性們. 他們多半有良好的教育背景, 有份社經地位被認可的不錯的工作, 但他們在成長過程中, 被有意無意的告誡, 關心打扮與追求時尚是件很娘的事. 所以, 即使大家內心深處都有變得迷人好看的渴望, 他們卻不知能怎麼做, 也難以啟齒和他人交換意見, 尋求協助.

在我之前的文章中曾提到, 我相信時尚是一種自我表達, 也是打造個人形象的利器. 能夠了解並善用打扮, 能讓個人不自覺增加自信, 為人生帶來意想不到的機會與轉變. 正因為如此 , 我要將這篇分享獻給這群掙扎如何變得好看迷人的男士們, 希望透過以下, 我個人觀察整理此次佛羅倫斯國際男裝展, 場外這些精彩街頭時裝秀的分享, 能給他們有一些啟發及勇氣, 開始學習如何打扮自己!

以下截圖全部來自 Instragram: pitti_uomo_ , 除了那些有特別標示其他出處的之外.



1.Accessories can easily spice up the looks no matter how simple your outfit is. If you prefer outfits in sober colors, consider vivid accessories (and note the harmony between all accessories and the outfit!)

就算你的衣著再簡單, 善用飾品總能幫你打造亮點. 如果你喜歡簡單暗沈的衣著, 試著選擇顏色鮮豔的飾品. 但要注意, 飾品之間以及和衣著之間必須有和諧感.

2. Create a little unexpected details: add casual elements (e.g. denim, sneaker, loafer, blazer/bomber, knitwear) to your formal outfits

不要墨守陳規, 試著在搭配上創造一點小衝突感. 比方說, 在正式的衣著上, 可搭配一些休閒的元素, 像是丹寧, 球鞋, 樂福鞋, 輕軟材質的外套或棒球外套, 針織衫等都是很好的選擇.

Skipping socks to create a random attitude, or try something fun if you insist wearing them!

不要穿襪子, 會讓你有種輕鬆不羈的性感. 如果一定要穿襪子, 選擇一些有趣的圖案或顏色,讓你的衣著增添趣味.

3. Invest on good-quality shirts with details will save you some efforts in styling!

一件質感好, 有特別細節設計的襯衫, 可以讓你在搭配上省不少力氣.


給對時尚頗有見解, 想晉升高手的潮男們

1.Playing colors

大膽玩色, 但是仍須考量整體和諧感.

2. Layering different patterns

堆疊不同的圖案. 我認為對整體配色和諧度的掌控, 仍舊是保證不失控的關鍵.

3. Saloro suits keep you dapper & composure yet a bit more versatile, thanks to the red yarns woven on the underside which generates a shiny reflection depending on the lighting and the angle of the viewer.

Saloro suits (抱歉, 找不到中文翻譯) 是一種能讓你保持既整齊俐落, 又能時髦多變的西裝材質. 這種材質混紡了紅色的線, 因此在不同的光線, 以及不同角度觀看下, 西裝表面會有不同的反射效果.

Voila. That’s it for this week. Looking forward to the emergence of more stylish men around. Good luck, guys!

好了. 希望以上的分享, 能激勵並幫助更多男士們早日脫胎換骨, 讓我們身邊有更多潮男出現. 男士們, 加油, 祝你們好運!

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