Sheung Wan: Charisma Built on Contrasts 上環 : 因衝突才美麗

Having been living in Hong Kong for 10 years, I am often asked by people where the most must-visit attraction is. There are indeed many options depending on what agenda you have. However, if I am only allowed to name one, definitely Sheung Wan would be my first nomination!

在香港住了十年, 常有人問我, 什麼地方是一定要造訪的. 選擇其實很多, 答案也因人而異, 但如果只能選一個地方, 我的推薦肯定會是上環.

Sheung Wan is an old and eclectic neighborhood with multiple faces. It can be described by many opposite adjectives: old yet new, shabby yet posh, traditional yet modern. This interesting contrast benefits from its great location: the dazzling and hip Central is just few steps walking at its east, which attracts many expats residing here given the more economic rent. The west side arrays ancient neighborhoods that still keep traditional life style. If one wants to see the versatility of Hong Kong in a nutshell, Sheung Wan shows you everything at one go: on one street, you find sleek art galleries next to un-furbished handicraft shops; modern western restaurants beside ragged Hong Kong-style tea house; expensive apartments adjacent to tenements surrounded by Chinese dried food market and with the ancient practice of Chinese medicine in action downstairs.

Being a capricious person, I am easily attracted by things with contrasting personality. Unlike the travel guides that list down must-go attractions one by one, I prefer sharing with you the charisma of Sheung Wan in my eyes.

上環是一個很有歷史, 面貌多元的地區. 它兼容並蓄, 既有年代又新潮, 看來破舊卻又時髦, 非常傳統也很現代. 這些看似衝突實質有趣的特質, 來自它絕佳的地理位置: 往東走幾步, 就是亮眼時尚的中環. 所以許多外派人員喜歡住上環, 除了地利之便, 房租也比中環相對便宜.  往西走, 遍佈傳統街坊的社區, 仍然保有舊香港的生活風貌. 如果有人想一眼看盡香港的特色, 上環肯定是你的首選. 在這裡, 同一條街上, 你會見到時髦摩登的藝廊和年久失修的傳統手工藝品店比鄰而居; 漂亮的西式餐廳旁走幾步就會見到裝潢粗陋的香港茶餐廳, 夥計們在店裡呦喝; 豪宅樓下就是唐樓, 附近環繞乾貨舖及傳統中藥行, 裡頭還有垂垂老矣的中醫師執業.

個性善變的我, 很容易受到具有衝突感的事物吸引. 所以, 以下的分享, 請別期待會和一般旅遊指南一樣, 一一條列介紹上環景點. 但是, 你會見到在我眼中的魅力上環!

The coffin shop next to a kindergarten. I really love this ingenious coincidence to demonstrate life- from the beginning to the end! 棺材店旁就是幼稚園. 這是我見過最有智慧道盡人生的方式!

Many people challenge Hong Kong being a cosmopolitan lacking of culture. Well, in Sheung Wan, arts can be free everywhere as long as you keep your eyes opened.

許多人說香港沒有文化. 在上環, 只要你張大眼睛 藝術處處都在.

Amazing Street Arts

街頭藝術

Space invaders- it is a shame that a lot more has gone!

法國神級的街頭藝術家Space invaders在上環留有許多作品, 可惜不少已經消失!

Many cute shops in hidden lanes

巷弄之間常會驚喜發現許多可愛的店鋪

Peeping corners

這些窄巷臺階常會勾起我想偷窺的慾望

Old is better

有時還是老東西有味道

My most favorite tea house: For Kee Restaurant

特別推薦: 科記茶餐廳

Personally I love Hong Kong-style tea houses very much for the big variety of food choice and that rouge yet nostalgic atmosphere. For Kee has been one of my most favorite especially for the super tasty pork chop rice.  It is family business and the youngest generation in the restaurant has been at their 40s already. They also have two cats welcoming (sleeping actually!) in front of the entrance all the time.

我個人非常喜愛香港的茶餐廳. 除了食物選擇多到目不暇給, 那種有點粗獷又懷舊的氛圍更是無可複製. 科記是我在香港最喜愛的茶餐廳之一, 它的豬排飯千里聞名. 這家茶餐廳是家族經營, 裡面的侍者個個都上了年紀, 在店裡見到最年輕的一代看起來也四十好幾, 所以, 這裡多了一份從容, 和一般茶餐廳那種快狠準的氣氛很不同. 他們最吸引我的 ,還有門口那兩隻招財貓, 只不過每次去, 他們都在睡覺…!

Hope my sharing gives you some idea for your weekend or vacation! 🙂

希望這篇分享能給你一些靈感規劃你的週末行程或假期! 🙂



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