It seems that nowadays there are always fashion shows happening sometime somewhere!
What is on now is Haute Couture in Paris, before that it was a series of 2018 Cruise/Resort collections in May. These two are defined as in-season between the Fall Winter Fashion Weeks (February/March) and Spring Summer Fashion Weeks (September/October) in “Big Four”- New York, London, Milan, Paris. Aside from that, more and more Fashion Weeks are rising in new cities to promote local designers and cultivate fashion business. On top, under the influential social media and fast fashion, quite a few fashion brands consider a more responsive and efficient business model, which includes adopting “see now buy now” action, combining women and men collection into one and show them out of the conventional Fashion Week calendar.
本月進行式的是巴黎的高級訂製服秀, 在五月則是一系列的早春度假系列發表. 這兩者介於四大時尚週紐約, 倫敦, 米蘭和巴黎在二三月發表的秋冬時尚週, 以及九十月的春夏時尚週之間. 然而, 除了這些已有口碑, 也有歷史兼具指標性的國際時尚週之外, 現在也有越來越多新的時尚週在不同城市出現, 除了提供平台給本土新興設計師外, 還肩負發展當地時裝產業的目的. 另外, 在社交媒體及快時尚的影響下, 越來越多品牌調整商業策略, 有的試行”即看即買”的模式, 直接滿足消費者的即興購買欲; 有更多品牌直接合併男女裝, 並跳脫傳統時尚週的發表時程 ,另外選擇經濟效益最大的時間點辦秀. 這些都讓時尚界的行事曆增加不少亮點, 不再僅僅聚焦春夏和秋冬兩季時尚週上.
Despite my interest in exploring different forms of fashion events to discover rising designers and trends, I would not deny my big passion to fashion shows. Brands who can hold fashion shows normally are more well-established and with a certain commercial scale. Therefore, they are more resourceful to be creative in executing shows that promote the brand image and convey the designers’ message in a hope to achieve a commercial success in the upcoming season. In general, the Fashion Weeks in the “Big Four” has set their tones: New York being more commercial casual and with support to rising American designers; London has artistic mindset, avant-garde and niche; Milan is glamours yet practical in Ready-to-Wear; Paris has more extravagant and rebellious collections. This serves a basic guide for one to expect what to see in fashion shows.
People watch fashion shows for different reasons: some search the shopping idea for the coming seasons, some are interested in the front row while others pay attention to the street shot happened outside of the show. To me, aside from getting styling ideas and learning the new trend, I am specifically intrigued by the fashion show venue and how it links to collection inspiration.
雖然我對新興設計師, 以及各種創意式的時裝發表很有興趣, 但不可否認, 傳統的大型時裝秀仍是我的心水. 有本事辦時裝秀的, 通常是有一定商業規模的品牌, 因此, 他們能有餘裕在時裝秀的各個層面上極致玩創意, 既打品牌形象, 又能讓設計師藉秀表達自我想法, 希望能藉由強大的媒體效益最終帶來商機. 四大時尚週的調性已經很明確, 比方說, 紐約時尚週帶有比較濃厚的商業休閒氣質, 也有較多新興的美國設計師利用這平台嶄露頭角; 倫敦時尚週先鋒前衛, 實驗性強, 也比較偏小眾; 米蘭展演的成衣既時髦華麗可穿性也強; 引領風騷的巴黎時尚週除了有許多經典大牌撐場, 也充斥很多誇張, 離經叛道的個性品牌在此展演.
每個人看時裝秀有不同角度, 有些人是為下一季的購物尋找靈感, 有些對第一排的名人有興趣, 有些則喜歡看近幾年流行的場外街拍及時尚博客穿搭. 對我來說, 看時裝秀除了觀察下一季的潮流, 尋找穿搭靈感之外, 另一個最吸引我的莫過於時尚秀發表場地, 以及品牌如何藉由場地的設計傳達這季的靈感.
Big fashion houses and brands present in the Big Four Fashion Week normally hold their fashion shows at the same venue every season. Yet in-season collections- Cruise and Haute Couture- own more liberty in choosing the show destination. For Cruise/Resort collection, it stays the longest in stores with significant business weight. It originates to serve rich people’s need in their luxe vacations and escapes. Therefore, brands who can afford to hold Cruise/Resort shows tent to invite their worldwide VIP to offer “experience” and an opportunity for an immediate purchase. Definitely a lavish location can do a good job!
Sometimes the show venues are decided before designers start their work. The decision could be out of commercial concern (for example, the space big enough to afford the number of VIP; a support to a new potential market or a new flagship in the city), to correspond to brand DNA and sometimes a sneak peep to the designers’ personal interest.
經典大牌在四大時裝周的春夏和秋冬兩季發表通常都會選擇同一個場地, 但早春度假系列和高級訂製服發表的地點通常就會比較天馬行空. 早春度假系列通常是所有系列中在店裡賣最久, 業績貢獻度最大的. 它緣起於讓有錢人在每年春寒料峭之際到處遊玩時, 能有奢華又實穿的行頭. 品牌通常會在早春的發表邀請全球最重要的客人參加, 提供一個特別的感官饗宴讓這些有錢人能爽快花錢. 很自然的, 地點愈酷, 經驗愈特別, 錢也就花得愈開心.
有時品牌決定早春發表的地點遠早於商品設計. 這些決定可能考量到商業目的, 比方說, 場地是否夠大能容納來賓人數, 或者只為要支持一個有潛力的新市場, 或在此地剛開幕的重點旗艦店; 或者是強化品牌形象, 甚至設計師個人的業餘興趣也有影響.
Louis Vuitton: the designer Nicolas Ghesquière is well known for his keen to architecture. Riding on the brand’s DNA as a traveler’s brand, the Cruise in these three years all take place at somewhere with strong architecture amaze.
路易威登: 設計師 Nicolas Ghesquière 對建築的興趣眾所皆知. 恰巧品牌本身是以旅行起家, 因此, 這三年的早春度假時裝秀, 都是在全球各地一些令人驚豔的建築舉辦.
Not all designers love to share their inspirations. Both Muiccia Prada and Marc Jacobs mentioned that sometimes design could be out of spontaneity and it is tired to make up stories to feed the media. Still, show venues and the decoration can be an index to the designers’ inner world, what they concern and what touches them emotionally.
“Dior Sauvage” at Santa Monica, California: Dior goes west! The looks show female strength and independence- mixing with softness as what the designer Maria-Grazia Chiuri claims from the previous seasons (We Should All be Feminists!)
不是每個設計師都喜歡分享他們的設計靈感. Muiccia Prada和Marc Jacobs都曾在訪問中表達過, 設計有時是靈感乍現, 總是要編故事來配合媒體實在很累. 但是, 就算設計師不說, 時裝秀地點和佈置也足夠透露他們的內心世界, 他們關心什麼, 以及什麼觸動他們的心弦.
迪奧早春在美國加州辦秀, 藉由美國西部的粗獷場景帶出迪奧的獨立女性形象及剛柔並濟的力量. 這也呼應了設計師Maria-Grazia Chiuri 上任以來不斷表達的女性主張 (比方說, 前一季紅到爆, 寫有”大家都該是女性主義者”的白T!)
Both Gucci and Chanel pays tribute to the birthplace of civilization even though the messages vary.
“Guccify Me” at Florence, Italy: pay tribute to Renaissance- the most powerful place for inspiration- at its heartland city Florence, which is also the birth place of the brand. When seeing the past and the present, designer Alessandro Michele realizes that nothing’s sure about tomorrow. Therefore, let’s live and love for today!
古馳選擇佛羅倫斯辦秀. 此地既是文藝復興的發源地, 也是品牌誕生地點. 懷古思今, 設計師Alessandro Michele領悟到未來的不可確定, 因此勸大家要及時行樂!
Chanel salutes to classical Greece at Grand Palais, Paris: Greece being the cradle of western civilization and the birthplace of democracy. It is said that Karl Largefeld protests against the prejudice and the conflict caused by politics today through this collection, and warns that the seeds of the future being sown in the past.
雖然香奈兒早春還是在巴黎大皇宮辦秀, 但一貫大手筆的完美複製古希臘神殿. 希臘是西方文明和民主的發源地, 有人說, 設計師Karl Largefeld 藉這個系列的發表, 抗議現今世界因為政治主導所發生的種種歧視和混亂, 並警告世人現在種的因就是明日收的果.
Haute Couture serves the small number of top-spending customers worldwide with most luxurious hand-crafted pieces. Couture customers are generally loyal to brands out of the emotional connection. Therefore, it’s a good strategy for brands to host couture shows at their origins to strengthen the image of brand heritage and craftsmanship.
高級訂製服服務的是世界上一小群特別有錢的高端客戶. 高級訂製服強調的是細緻的手工和極度奢華的細節表現, 通常這類的客戶對品牌有一定的忠誠度和感情, 也因此, 不少品牌選擇他們的發源地辦秀, 強化品牌歷史和極致的手工藝.
Hope it provides a different perspective for you to watch fashion shows next time. Carpe Diem!