Style

Ugly Chic 醜時尚

I can still remember how my mom used to scold me for wearing red and green together. “It’s tasteless and cheesy,” she said. Indeed, there seems always a rule referring to being fashionable and beautiful. I have so used to these rules and applied them in my work, and passed them on to countless corporate training.

我仍然記得, 小時候有一次將紅色和綠色同時穿上身, 即刻被我媽教訓: “這樣很土很沒品味.” 確實, 一路以來, 似乎總有一些規則決定什麼叫時髦好看, 也被用來當作衡量個人品味高低的標準. 而我也曾經非常熟識這些規則, 不只將他們運用在我的工作上, 也在無數次對公司內外的產品趨勢訓練上分享這些公式.

Gucci Cruise 2018 ©Getty

With the rising of ugly chic in the fashion catwalk, however, all the rules seem to be reversed. Designers create their catwalk pieces that break every rule you’ve ever read about. The reaction of public is normally ERRR or WTF yet they occupy the social media accounts (specifically Instagram!)  of those “cool girls”.  The previous uncool now looks so cool. The used-to-be-negative terms- “nerdy” “garnish” “unflattering”- now stand for fashion-forward. Ugly is having the moment and seems become new beauty now. What makes it interesting is the huge media exposure of these styles brainwashing the public and turning opinions from disgust to must-have gradually.

但當這幾年醜時尚開始出現並崛起伸展台後, 我發現, 這些我們習以為常的規則似乎都被打破了. 設計師們在伸展台上呈現一套又一套挑戰主流美學的衣飾. 雖然一般大眾的反應多是”噁”或”搞屁”, 但這些推翻常理的衣著飾品可攻佔了潮人的心, 以及他們的社交媒體版面(特別是Instagram!) 之前看來土的東西現在全被稱為潮物; 那些曾被用來貶損的字眼: 書呆子, 俗艷, 不合身, 現在全變成前衛風格. 醜這件事情好像變成了一種美和時尚的風格, 更有趣的是, 在媒體曝光的推波助瀾下, 大眾的美學眼光似乎漸漸被洗腦, 對這些奇異的風格由一開始的反胃, 到可以接受, 甚至成為想成為潮人的必備.

Ugly chic is not a new thing. Miuccia Prada builds her business on it since the 90s. It is just that this trend becomes more and more intensified and penetrating in the fashion world through the success of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, and Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements and now Balenciaga. Of course, one would say: beauty is in the eyes of the beholders. Therefore, let’s just be open-minded and enjoy the fun brought by this unconventional and interesting fashion trend.

醜時尚其實不是這幾年才出現. Miuccia Prada在九零年代接手並開展普拉達品牌版圖, 一路就是用此令人爭議的風格引領時尚. 這幾年醜時尚的突然竄起, 和Alessandro Michele成功重新打造的古馳, 以及Demna Gvasalia在個人潮牌Vetements高度得到媒體矚目, 並因此接手重寫時尚老牌巴黎世家不無關係. 當然, 你會說, 情人眼裏出西施, 美醜本來就不該有一定的標準. 這說法非常有道理. 所以, 接下來, 讓我們敞開心胸, 不帶批判的欣賞這些有趣的醜時尚, 以及他們帶來的美學新樣貌.

Shoes

No one would deny that Crocs and Birkenstock had nothing to do with fashion. Be aware- now the bedazzled version totally becomes fashion darling since Christopher Kane’s Spring Summer 2017 collection. One would win bonus ugly points if wearing it with socks. Yet the most striking award goes to the Frankenstein sandal boot hybrid of UGG and Teva in 2016. It is called the “ugliest shoes ever.” The fur-lined version is even joked “perfect for going to beach in Alaska!”

相信一路以來, 只要提到卡駱馳鞋 (有段時間又名小布希鞋) 和勃肯鞋, 沒有人會覺得他們和時髦有任何關聯. 不過, 這幾季他們鹹魚大翻身, 特別在Christopher Kane 2017春夏秀大量曝光裝飾華麗的卡洛馳鞋之後, 忽然之間他們在時尚舞台上變成了新寵. 除了增高以及浮誇的裝飾, 如果加上襪子穿, 那簡直就是醜時尚中的極品. 不過, 這還不及下面這雙UGG 和Teva通力合作, 被譽為史上最醜, 鞋界科學怪人的涼鞋靴, 加上皮草的內襯, 有人戲稱此款簡直就是去阿拉斯加海灘最佳的良伴.

Mom/Dad/Boyfriend Apparels

It is sort of a common sense in styling doctrine that we wear clothes to flatter our body. However, when those apparels named after your familial relationship (mom jeans, dad hats, boyfriend tees..etc) rise and become KOL’s (such as Bella & Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner) daily wear on Instagram, all those rules are ditched to the trash bin. These familial-named apparels generally stand for loose-cutting. Thus, the comfort is definitely unbeatable when wearing these pieces.

以你老爸老媽和男友命名的衣著

選擇能修飾你身形, 隱惡揚善的衣著, 一向是造型上的金科玉律. 然而, 當老媽牛仔褲, 老爹帽, 以及男友T恤等這些以你的家人伴侶為名的衣著開始出現在潮人的日常穿搭, 還在社交媒體上大量曝光時, 大多數人這時應該都會覺得需要來個幾件, 修不修身這件事早就拋到九霄雲外. 這類的服飾以寬鬆為主要特色, 所以穿著時的舒適感當然一流, 不過, 如果善於搭配, 其實能創造出很迷人的隨性不羈形象.

Nerdy and Granny Glasses

How can one forget a pair of massive frames to replicate the nerdy style promoted by Michele’s Gucci? In addition, the chunky eyewear chain straps that used to belong to grannies have also been introduced officially on the catwalk.

書呆子和你阿婆的眼鏡

如果你想模仿Alessandro Michele的新古馳風格, 最簡單就是戴上一副超大的書呆子眼鏡, 這項飾品也出現在芬迪以及普拉達的伸展台上. 另外, 之前專屬你阿婆的眼鏡鏈帶, 現在也開始流行, 在巴黎世家的2016秋冬秀中被加粗的彩色墨鏡鏈帶, 成為最顯眼的配件之一.

Garish Colors Clashes

What’s the new rule under this can’t-let-your-mom-see-it trend? The more striking, the better!

俗艷的撞色

怎樣能讓這款你媽看到會昏倒的風格再更上一層呢? 沒別的, 就是越誇張, 越俗艷, 撞色撞到沒邊界, 那肯定能榮登冠軍寶座.



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