Style Vanity Fair

My Fashion Nostalgia: Part II 不了情: 第二部

The designer is known for her steadfast refusal to work without a statement. This pop-art face Spring Summer 2014 collection is all about feminism: “I want to inspire women to struggle.” As usual, she shared this message through the expression in the art world.

這位設計師的作品以她一貫的批判色彩聞名. 2014春夏和諸多藝術家合作, 以普普和運動街頭風呈現的女性臉孔系列, 也不例外蘊藏設計師的訊息: “我想啟發女性發掘內在的力量, 無畏懼的戰鬥.”

Prada Spring Summer 2014

In my career, working for this company is a very special experience.
It is a family business. The CEO is famous for not only being visionary, but also his bad temper and sound shouting. The designer- the wife of the CEO- has been amazing and inspired the fashion industry with her advanced vision and unique taste. Yet she doesn’t like to share her thoughts. With her hands-on style especially on the image and visual display in stores, to work with her is no easier than winning a lottery- we work in the dark, guess what the designer want, and try until bingo!

我多年的職場生涯中, 就屬在這間公司的經歷最特別.

這是一間家族企業, 老闆不僅以他的遠見聞名, 他的臭脾氣和宏亮的罵人聲也是遠近皆知. 老闆娘, 也是設計師, 則以她對時尚前衛顛覆的觀點及獨特的醜陋美學品味, 過去幾十年不斷驚艷時尚界, 並啟發諸多設計師後進. 然而, 這位時尚導師卻不喜歡分享自己內心的想法. 因此, 在她手下工作, 是很有挑戰性的. 一來她喜愛親力親為, 特別是關乎品牌形象的店頭陳列, 視覺溝通. 但同時她不會給予明確的指令, 結果不如她意, 團隊只會收到”不夠好”這類的簡短反饋, 然後就得不斷嘗試改進到老闆娘點頭為止, 這上下的心情絕對不輸買樂透.

Working in a business world for so many years, the reluctance of the designer to share her thoughts was a true mystery for me. I didn’t really get it until this grand exhibition taking place in Hong Kong in the end of 2014. It is a celebration to the brand’s creativity and craftsmanship, a wholehearted endorsement to the stylistic iconoclast. The designer regrouped and mix-and-matched her 60 looks in the past 30 years into 6 new themes, and presented the inspirations from art, film and design in glasses cases and through multi-media. I always remember how they touched me strongly the moment seeing them- the reincarnation can be even more powerful than the original version. What involved, I am sure, may not be a good calculation and analysis but the sparkle of instinct and the feeling deep down in the heart!

在商業環境打滾這麼久, 一開始我對設計師工作上不愛明講想法的風格感到不解. 但 2014年尾, 當我參訪了在香港舉辦的這個大型展覽之後, 我突然明白了一些事. 這個展覽可說是品牌的重大回顧, 向過去三十年發表過的創意和手工藝, 對時尚和美學的顛覆重解致敬. 設計師將她發表過的六十套作品拆解, 重組成六個新的主題. 將這些受藝術, 電影及設計啟發的作品, 或在玻璃櫃, 或用多媒體的形式展現. 我仍舊記得當時站在場內, 欣賞這些系列時 內心強烈的衝擊和震撼. 也突然明白了, 要重組這些來自不同時期的作品, 賦予他們新的訊息和面貌, 中間的過程靠的可不是精密的計算, 很多時候, 得深入感覺內心並聽信直覺, 而這些是很難用言語說明的.

We are living in a world that values rational thinking and analysis over instinct and feeling. However, the latter is mostly where new idea and creativity are rooted. My years working in the fashion industry as a merchandiser teach me that, those can only be felt than said could sometimes move people more strongly given that they may look intangible.

我們活在一個理性的世界, 懂得分析和理性思考, 總被認為勝過依賴直覺和感受行事. 然而, 靈感和創意往往來自後者. 這麼多年在時尚界擔任買手, 如果有什麼是我覺得最珍貴的學習, 我會說, 有些創作看來虛渺, 無法言喻, 只能感覺, 卻往往具備最能打動人心的強大力量

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