Spring Summer 2019 Fashion Weeks end through the closure at Paris. Among all, Paris Fashion Week to me is the most attractive and dazzling- there are mega-presentations especially out of the power affirmation from two conglomerates Kering and LVMH (Dior vs. Gucci on the opening of Paris Fashion Week; Celine vs. Saint Laurent later in the week). On top, there are quite a few mostly anticipated moments from the debut of designers at their new reign.
2019 春夏時尚週上週正式落幕. 有人說, 今年的時尚秀似乎在巴黎沒開場前, 好像沒啥感覺. 對我來說 ,巴黎時尚週也的確是最有看頭的: 不僅有兩大時尚巨頭 Kering 和 LVMH集團撒銀兩鬥誰荷包深的精彩好戲 (一開場就是Dior對上Gucci, 之後又有 Celine槓 Saint Laurent) 除此之外, 這也是許多大牌設計師轉換東家後的處女秀.
I always believe that fashion is not just about clothing. Fashion show should be story teller which expresses the idea and attitude from the designer. Therefore, instead of boring you with fabrics and silhouette, I love to share the lessons I learn from watching the Spring Summer 2019 shows.
時尚週對我來說, 從來看的就不只是服裝. 每場秀都是一個故事, 傳遞設計師當下的靈感和態度. 因此, 與其叨叨絮絮的分析布料和剪裁, 下面我想分享這季時尚週我看到的小故事大啟示.
♥ Love Well, Whip Well
♥ 愛之深 恨之切
Love could be a burden too. This idea is demonstrated well in Celine from Hedi Slimane. The come back of Hedi Slimane since he quitted Saint Laurent two years ago has been the mostly talked about. Therefore, his debut at Celine Spring Summer 2019 show is also the most anticipated yet disappoints the most. Why? The show presents the same Hedi night club style exactly as Saint Laurent at his time. Some says he’s so obsessed with what he does that he didn’t even bother to care the new happenings in the fashion world during his absence. Others blame him for wiping out the liberty Phoebe Philo gave to women and injecting a “gust of toxic masculinity.” (quoted from Tim Blanks, BOF Editor-at-Large)
有人說, 愛可以是種負擔. Hedi Slimane的首季Celine秀, 完全可以印證這句箴言. Slimane在兩年前離開他救活的聖羅蘭後此番強勢回歸, 讓Celine大秀成為本季最受關注的焦點之一 (特別他還在一上任就大刀闊斧砍了品牌e上面的重音, 清了前任Phoebe Philo在官方Instagram上的足跡點滴, 將與論推到激情的最高點) 結果, 秀走完, 也成為本季罵聲最大的眾矢之的. 為何哩? 首先他端出來的設計, 和之前他在聖羅蘭著名的夜店風格幾乎一模一樣, 強勢的剪裁, 暗黑的美學, 相對於Phoebe Philo之前為Celine建立的一種簡約自由的女性自信美學, Slimane本季了無新意的設計, 有人說, 大概他太沈迷自己的風格, 懶得去鳥離開這兩年, 時尚圈的變化. 而BOF首席主編Tim Blanks 更不客氣的批評, 此秀散發一股有毒的陽剛味.
In my opinion, the fashion world has short memory, and money speaks for itself. It is a true pity that Hedi Slimane didn’t show a new point of view for Celine as highly expected. However, Slimane has a proved history for the Midas touch. Who knows today’s mourning would not turn into a blissful praise one day?!
當然 Slimane沒端出新菜,老實說我也有點失望. 不過話說回來, 只要能賺錢, 時尚圈的變臉速度可以快到嚇死你. Slimane一向以點石成金出名, 誰知道幾個月後, 如果他能再次施展魔法, 讓品牌賺大錢,今日的這深沈的怨, 會不會變成明日悅耳的奉承呢?!
♥ Don’t Mess Up with Gender Issue when It is Paramount at the Moment
The definition of being women or men is getting outdated. Look at the Millennial generation- do they care gender at all while growing up? In that sense, androgyny has been a new norm since seasons ago. The merge of Men and Women shows- even though firstly it’s for the economy concern- has also been a normal practice to many brands. in Spring Summer 2019, it seems more designers want to liberate the gender issue by showing both the strength and vulnerability of both men and women.
現下再談男女有別真是太老套了. 和千禧世代談男女本分, 你覺得他們會鳥你嗎? 也因為如此, 幾季之前, 雌雄同體就已經成為主流設計的一部分. 特別近年還流行合併男女時尚秀, 替品牌省錢又省力. 2019春夏發表更是性別大解放, 不少品牌大膽展現性別無界限.
Cropped hair, skinny athletic bodies. Can you be so sure of their gender?
Louis Vuitton also plays with gender this season. Those males in suits are actually all female models. Ambiguity of gender in the new generation is the idea the designer Nicholas Ghesquière wants to discuss, and the role clothing plays as an empowerment.
路易威登本季也玩性別遊戲, 那些著男裝的帥哥其實都是女生. 設計師Nicholas Ghesquière說, 他想探討新世代性別模糊, 以及服裝扮演的角色.
Transformation is the idea of John Galliano for Maison Margiela. There are some transgender models walking in the show. Without emphasis, the fit, the cutting and the drape are just so reasonable and same powerful for both genders.
John Galliano安插了幾位男模特兒走女裝秀, 但並不特別張揚, 完全用他男女皆宜的鮮明剪裁設計, 表達堅強這件事可以很中性.
Thom Browne: An Odd Lesson of the Season
In the #MeToo era, one has to watch out his humour. Thom Browne show is said to be an odd lesson to the value nowadays. The uncomfortable setting- the face mask (resemble Hannible. One even with melting ice cream cone), stitched lips, agonizing shoes and the bound bodies- causes the accusation of being misogynistic given the fabulous tailoring and blissful colours.
近來當討伐性騷擾及女性自主議題沸沸騰騰時, Thom Browne這場秀招惹一堆罵名. 為何? 因為他的設計有太多讓女性不舒服的元素, 比方說, 那像十三號星期五電影中殺人魔的面具, 有的額頭上還直接被砸了融化的冰淇淋. 沒戴面具的模特兒被金箔封嘴, 加上看來就很痛苦無法行走的鞋, 以及身體手臂被五花大綁的模特兒. 無論他的設計剪裁用色有多棒, 有評論說, 這些細節只顯現了設計師對女性的厭惡.
♥ Steadfast to Your Best Quality Even Though It May Not Entertain the Mainstream
♥ 就算無法討好主流 也要堅持做最棒的自己
When commerce overrides all and drives ready to wear design, it is always grateful to see some designers insisting their belief in the authentic beauty of clothes and craftsmanship.
當商業主導時尚圈及商品設計時, 能在成衣秀里見到設計師堅持自己的美學, 打造出宛如高級訂製服般華美的衣裳, 內心會油然升起一股感動.
Olivier Rousteing said the French chic looks he created originated from ancient Egypt. I see the beautiful scultping, tailoring and body-conscious cutting in this amazing and artistic collection.
設計師Olivier Rousteing 說,這季他創造的法式風情靈感源自古埃及. 那些精準雕塑的皺摺, 幾何輪廓, 及精心計算的剪裁, 會讓人感受到欣賞藝術品的震撼.
The collection talks about the important moments of a woman’s life, according to the designer Sarah Burton. The workmanship with attention to details give an haute-couture touch.
這季訴說每個女性由生到死的一生會經歷的重要時刻. 設計師Sarah Burton擅長打造精緻的小細節, 讓這場成衣秀有高級訂製服的感動.
Dries Van Noten
The looks are basic and wearable yet with innovative detailing, accessories and couture gesture! No matter how the world changes, I love Dris Van Noten for his keeping the modern and sophisticated style with upbeat patterns and joyful colours.
我最喜歡設計師Dris Van Noten之處, 就是不管潮流怎麼變, 他總能堅守自己的風格, 玩弄重組漂亮印花, 加上活潑色彩, 打造既創意, 具高級感, 卻又實穿的衣裳和飾品.
♥ Clash Creates New Beauty
Lack of creativity? Try the contrast by marrying two opposite elements, and voila there could give birth to a new beauty!
找不到靈感創新? 試試看結合兩種極端的元素 ,有時能撞出新美學!
Miuccia Prada interprets the confrontation of conservatism and liberation
Demna Gvasalia shows us what happens when the so-called low-tech fashion industry meets the high-tech digital power.
Virgil Abloh partners with Nike and creates a new look of athleisure, which keeps the chic.
和Nike合作的運動風, 不僅休閒, 也真的夠時髦.
♥ Life is Full of Tests- Watch Out Your Wallets!
♥ 人間是個試煉場 要看好你的荷包!
Money is the ultimate darling to fashion brands. If training store teams to conduct cross selling is too time-consuming, then let’s brainwash customers from upstream!
不管時尚秀展現什麼故事, 業績終究還是品牌每季最重要的指標. 訓練店內員工做連鎖銷售太累了, 那不如從上游 時尚秀發表就開始洗腦消費者, 讓他們乖乖掏錢吧. 看時尚秀, 有時也是訓練自我定力的好方法.