COVID-Inspired Fashion Shows 疫情下的創意時尚

How will the fashion industry become if without the fashion shows?

時尚產業如果沒了時裝發表秀會變成怎樣呢?

Before COVID-19, such topic will definitely cause panic- people in the fashion industry will tell you that’s just too horrible to even imagine. After all, without this platform, how will designers present their particular aesthetic and point of view?
How could brands show off their prestige and draw public attention? And where can be better for KOLs to fight for the street photographers’ attention and feed their social media accounts with their jetsetters’ moments?

在疫情之前, 這種議題一說出來, 大概會引發一陣撻伐.
時尚人會驚慌地告訴你, 這種事連想都覺得可怕, 更別說討論可能性了.畢竟, 時尚秀早已成為這產業重要的平台, 每季用來吸引目光和金錢, 對大品牌而言, 更是炫富的重要時刻. 沒了它, 設計師要如何能展現自己獨特的美學和設計觀點呢?少了它, 品牌如何公開展示財力和影響力, 吸引大眾注意呢? 更別說來自那些網紅們的哀嚎了. 少了在時裝周街上爭奇鬥豔, 爭奪街頭攝影師的鏡頭; 還有那些搭商務艙, 飛奔各大時尚週的名流形象照, 他們哪裡能餵養社交媒體上嗷嗷待哺的粉絲們呢?

Photo: Getty

In view of the recent 2021 Spring Ready-to-Wear Fashion week, I would say maybe COVID has brought some inspiration to us aside from the damage. By being forced to present the show in a pandemic-proof format, many brands have demonstrated incredible creativities. Without having to compete for the wealth and the disruption from the front row guests’ phones, moreover, the show can totally dedicate to the designers’ concept and the details of the clothes.

但最近剛發表的2021春夏時尚週顯然證明了, 最壞的時光也能激發令人驚嘆的火花.大部分品牌被迫將時裝發表轉移到線上, 但也因為打破慣常, 所以反而有許多令人驚喜的創意.畢竟, 不用競逐炫富, 少了伸展台兩旁那些惱人的電話拍攝, 時裝秀可以安靜而專注的表現設計師的觀點,  並聚焦在衣服的細節設計.

I select some of my most favorite 2021 Spring fashion shows. Hope they give you a pure joy as well!

以下我精選幾場個人喜愛的春夏時裝秀. 希望它們也能帶給你一些純粹的時尚愉悅!

Loewe

Show On the Wall

牆上時尚秀

Photo: http://www.milkxtw.com
Photo: Loewe 2021 Spring Summer Show

Instead of hiring real models, designer J.W. Anderson transforms the looks of this collection into giant wallpapers. Each wallpaper shows at 1:1 scale vs. the real model. The designer admitted that the pandemic made it a challenge to source the fabric. Therefore, he used what he had and focused the concept on fantasy.

J.W. Anderson這季的Loewe時尚秀, 展演者是真人等大的紙娃娃.設計師坦承, 疫情讓他在設計當中, 搜尋布料的過程產生許多困難. 因此他運用現有的材料, 將時尚秀的展演重點放在設計概念上.

Photo: http://www.milkxtw.com

The invited guests were sent scissors, wallpaper paste and a giant supersize artful images made of the look book so that they can plaster these images all over the walls in their personal space. The designer’s previous show called “show-in-the-box”, which is an opposite toyed with miniature.

受邀觀秀的來賓收到的邀請函, 包括了一本內附剪刀和黏膠的巨型時尚目錄.
設計師旨在鼓勵大家一起動手, 將這些時裝設計剪下黏在家裡的牆上,用你自己的創意設計壁紙, 完全複製這場時尚秀的概念.Loewe上一次的時尚秀, 主題是”盒中的時尚”. 和這次放大的概念相反, 玩的是等比例縮小的趣味.

“We have to start loving fashion again. We don’t know what tomorrow’s going to bring. So let’s enjoy it!,” said Anderson, of the collection.

J.W. Anderson說,
“正因為明天的未知, 所以現在每一刻我們都要盡情享受時尚!”

Moschino

Puppet Fashion Show

木偶時尚秀

Photo: Moschino 2021 Spring Summer Show
Photo: Moschino 2021 Spring Summer Show
Photo: Moschino 2021 Spring Summer Show

How can we ensure a Fashion show pandemic-proof yet remaining the authentic experience? Check out Moschino’s string puppet fashion show! At the first glance, this show is nothing different from the traditional one- there are models, industry influencers sitting on the front rows and the designer Jeremy Scott on the back stage. The only difference is- they are all marionettes. The designer reproportioned his design- every fabric, garment, motif- in a miniature without losing the authentic properties of the cloth. Fun and politically sarcastic (“string attached”, fake vs. real)- just very Moschino!

怎麼能讓一場時尚秀, 完全免於疫情威脅, 卻又能保有最真實的看秀體驗呢?看看這季Moschino你就有答案了! 這場時尚秀乍看和往常並沒有什麼不同: 有模特兒走台步, 有時尚產業的大腕坐鎮, 還有設計師Jeremy Scott在後台張羅及秀後現身謝幕.唯一就是, 這些人全部都是由人手操控的木偶! Jeremy Scott將他這季時裝設計的每一個細節, 包括布料, 圖騰, 飾品造型等, 鉅細彌遺的縮小在每個木偶上,
讓觀賞者能完美欣賞到衣服每個設計的巧思和細節. 被細繩操控的木偶, 真假難分, 帶有政治嘲諷意味的有趣- 真是非常的 Moschino!

Balenciaga

Night Stroll in Paris music video

夜遊巴黎MTV

Photo: Balenciaga 2021 Spring Summer
Photo: Balenciaga 2021 Spring Summer
Photo: Balenciaga 2021 Spring Summer
Photo: Balenciaga 2021 Spring Summer

Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia can never be away from street! Instead of adopting digital or traditional physical format, the designer showed a condensed Spring 2021 pre-collection look book with an accompanying video. In this video, models stroll on the quiet Paris streets at night. These streets used to be packed with fashion people rushing to their next destinations during the same Fashion week period in the past. The background music “Sunglasses at Night” accompanying the models’ randomly strolling on streets hint the uncertainty we are facing. The sustainable collection depicting the fashion looks in the next decade- that could be the hope and solution Demina Gvasalia wants to enlighten.

設計師Demna Gvasalia操刀下的Balenciaga 總離不開街頭! 和其他品牌要不將時尚秀完全線上演出, 或還是維持傳統形式但僅邀請少數賓客, Demna Gvasalia特立獨行, 將他這季的設計僅用一本目錄加上音樂錄影帶推出. MTV中模特兒們在安靜的巴黎夜晚街頭遊蕩. 對照往昔, 這些街道在同樣的時尚週期間, 總擠爆來來往往的時髦人士, 趕場不同品牌的時尚發表秀.背景音樂 “夜晚的墨鏡” 伴隨著遊走的模特兒, 真實反映疫情之下, 世界的手足無措和種種不確定. 然而, 整個系列用環保和可延續性的概念設計, 在”十年後的時尚”這主題下,似乎暗示了設計師心中所想的希望所在.

Prada

Dialogue

對話

Photo: Prada 2021 Spring Summer Show
Photo: Prada 2021 Spring Summer
Photo: Prada, Live streamed dialogue between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simon

It is probably the most anticipated runway show among all as the collection is the first collaboration between Miuccia Prada and the new co-creative director Raf Simon. The theme “Dialogue” not only indicates creating process of the two designers to re-define Prada-ness. The digital setup of the show venue with multi-facet camera without any guests also illustrates our new relation with technology- we rely on it to link with each other, have dialogue and get to see things (clothes) from multiple angles.

這場秀大概是本季最受期待的! 因為是設計師Prada女士和今年年初新加入的創意總監Raf Simon,  第一次共同設計發表的大秀. 主題叫做”對話”,  不僅帶出兩位大師如何在共同設計過程中重塑Prada品牌樣貌, 現場不邀賓客, 僅由數十架攝影機, 360度轉播這場時尚發表, 由各角度呈現衣服設計的設定, 也表現人類和科技的對話新關係. 藉由科技, 我們得以對話, 既分隔卻又相互連結.

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